0 

INDIAN  NOTES 

AND   MONOGRAPHS 

8 
o 

0 
4 


A  SERIES  OF  PUBLICA- 
TIONS RELATING  TO  THE 
AMERICAN  ABORIGINES 


SANDALS  AND  OTHER  FABRICS 
FROM  KENTUCKY  CAVES 

BY 

WILLIAM  C.  ORCHARD 


NEW  YORK 

MUSEUM  Or  THE  AMERICAN  INDIAN 

HEYE  FOUNDATION 

1920 


blications  of  the  Museum  of  the 
American  Indian,  Heye  Foundation 


THE   GEORGE   G.  HEYE  EXPEDITION 
CONTRIBUTIONS  TO  SOUTH  AMER- 
ICAN ARCHAEOLOGY 
Vol.  1 

The  Antiquities  of  Manabi,  Ecuador:  A  Pre- 
liminary Report.  By  Marshall  H.  Saville. 
1907.  $25.00. 

Vol.2 

The  Antiquities  of  Manabi,  Ecuador:  Final 
Report.  By  Marshall  H.  Saville.  1910. 
$25.00. 

CONTRIBUTIONS  FROM  THE  MUSEUM 

OF  THE  AMERICAN  INDIAN, 

HEYE  FOUNDATION 

Vol.  1 

No.  1:  Lucayan  Artifacts  from  the  Bahamas. 
By  Theodoor  de  Booy.  Reprinted  from  Amer. 
Anthropol.,  Vol.  15,  1913,  No.  1.  50c. 

No.  2:  Precolumbian  Decoration  of  the  Teeth 
in  Ecuador,  with  some  Account  of  the  Oc- 
currence of  the  Custom  in  other  parts  of 
North  and  South  America.  By  Marshall  H. 
Saville.  Reprinted  from  Amer.  Anthropol., 
Vol.  1'5,  1913,  No.  3.  50c. 

No.  3:  Certain  Kitchen-middens  in  Jamaica. 
By  Theodoor  de  Booy.  Reprinted  from 
Amer.  Anthropol.,  Vol.  15,  1913,  No.  3.  (Re- 
printed,  1919.}  50c. 

No.  4:  Porto  Rican  Elbow-stones  in  the  Heye 
Museum,  with  discussion  of  similar  objects 
elsewhere.  By  J.  Walter  Fewkes.  Reprinted 
from  Amer  Anthropol.,  Vol.  15,  1913,  No.  3. 
50c. 


INDIAN  NOTES 
AND   MONOGRAPHS 


A  SERIES  OF  PUBLICA- 
TIONS RELATING  TO  THE 
AMERICAN  ABORIGINES 


SANDALS  AND  OTHER  FABRICS 
FROM  KENTUCKY  CAVES 

BY 

WILLIAM  C.  ORCHARD 


NEW   YORK 

MUSEUM  OF   THE   AMERICAN   INDIAN 

HEYE   FOUNDATION 

1920 


THIS  series  of  INDIAN  NOTES  AND  MONO- 
GRAPHS is  devoted  primarily  to  the  publica- 
tion of  the  results  of  studies  by  members  of 
the  staff  of  the  Museum  of  the  American 
Indian,  Heye  Foundation,  and  is  uniform 
with  HISPANIC  NOTES  AND  MONOGRAPHS, 
published  by  the  Hispanic  Society  of 
America,  with  which  organization  this 
Museum  is  in  cordial  cooperation. 


SANDALS  AND  OTHER 
FABRICS  FROM  KEN- 
TUCKY CAVES 

BY 

WILLIAM  C.  ORCHARD 


SANDALS     AND     OTHER     FABRICS 
FROM    KENTUCKY    CAVES 

By  WILLIAM  C.  ORCHARD 

N  1894  the  late  Col.  Bennett  H. 
Young,  of  Louisville,  Kentucky, 
an  enthusiast  in  local  archeology, 
undertook  a  careful  investigation 
of  some  of  the  famous  caves  of  that  locality. 
His  efforts  were  rewarded  by  the  discovery 
of  many  remarkable  artifacts  of  undoubted 
antiquity,  as  well  as  other  evidences  indi- 
cating aboriginal  occupancy  of  at  least  some 
of  the  caves.  Colonel  Young  has  published 
a  valuable  monograph1  illustrating  and  de- 
scribing many  of  the  specimens  found  during 
his  work  in  the  caves,  as  well  as  other 
valuable  material  collected  in  various  parts 
of  the  state  and  in  adjacent  territory,  illus- 
trating the  life  of  the  prehistoric  inhabi- 
tants. Many  of  the  specimens  obtained  by 


INDIAN    NOTES 


KENTUCKY  CAVES 


Colonel  Young  have  been  added  to  the  col- 
lections of  the  Museum  of  the  American 
Indian,  Heye  Foundation,  among  which  are 
some  textile  fabrics,  which  rarely  occur 
archeologically  in  the  East. 

Owing  to  the  favorable  atmospheric  con- 
ditions, and  the  careful  manner  in  which  the 
fabrics  were  removed  from  the  caves,  a 
quantity  of  these  artifacts  have  been  so  well 
preserved  that  it  has  been  possible  to  study 
the  methods  employed  in  weaving  some  of 
them.  The  greater  number  of  specimens 
in  the  Museum  collection  were  found  in 
Salts  cave  in  Edmonson  county,  of  which 
Colonel  Young  writes: 

"The  Salts  cave,  the  most  prolific  in  pre- 
historic relics,  and  rivaling  even  Mammoth 
cave  in  the  size  and  grandeur  of  its  avenues 
and  chambers,  was  known  nearly  one  hundred 
years  ago,  and  though  often  visited  has  never 
been  thoroughly  explored,  and  little  has  been 
written  of  its  remarkable  evidences  of  prehistoric 
life.  Among  the  most  interesting  discoveries 
were  a  number  of  neatly  braided  slippers  or 
sandals,  and  fragments  of  textile  art. 

"Several  materials  seem  to  have  been  used 
in  the  manufacture  of  these.  Some  were  made 
of  the  fiber  of  the  cattail,  or  Typha,  a  plant 
which  grows  abundantly  in  the  ponds  in  the 


INDIAN    NOTES 


SANDALS  AND   FABRICS 


southern  part  of  the  state.  Others  were  woven 
of  the  inner  bark  of  trees,  probably  the  pawpaw 
and  linn.  Still  others  were  made  of  what  ap- 
pears to  be  the  fiber  of  the  wild  hemp,  and  yet 
others  from  a  species  of  grass  which  grew  in 
great  abundance  on  the  Barrens  of  Kentucky." 

Among  the  artifacts  discovered  in  the 
caves,  nothing  of  European  origin  was  re- 
covered. Many  pieces  of  cut  wood  were 
found,  all  bearing  positive  evidence  of 
having  been  worked  with  primitive  tools. 
Numerous  excavations  were  made  in  the 
caves  by  the  early  occupants,  apparently 
with  sharp-pointed  sticks,  specimens  of 
which  were  recovered.  Stone  implements 
and  pottery  were  scarce  in  the  interior  of 
the  cave,  but  many  flint  flakes,  pestles, 
axes,  knives,  and  arrowpoints  were  found 
about  and  in  its  entrance.  A  quantity  of 
raw  material  for  weaving  was  found  scat- 
tered about  the  floors  of  the  cave,  some  of 
it  tied  in  neat  bundles  in  readiness  for  use. 
Strings  of  fine  twisted  fiber,  and  larger 
cords  of  braided  material,  sometimes  of  six 
or  eight  strands,  were  numerous,  but  no 
large  twisted  cord  or  rope  seems  to  have 
been  discovered. 


AND    MONOGRAPHS 


KENTUCKY  CAVES 


Of  special  interest  are  the  sandals  and 
other  fabrics.  Although  in  a  good  state  of 
preservation,  the  materials  from  which  these 
objects  were  made  are  so  brittle  and  matted 
that  unwrapping  or  untwisting  the  cords  or 
weavings  is  impossible,  and  therefore  a  few 
minor  details  may  be  lacking  in  the  follow- 
ing description  of  the  technique  employed 
in  the  manufacture  of  the  textiles. 

The  sandals  show  variation  in  technique 
according  to  the  materials  employed. 
Those  made  of  coarse,  fibrous  material, 
such  as  that  which  appears  to  be  from  the 
cattail  (Typhd),  or  possibly  of  husks  or 
stalks  of  corn,  are  manufactured  in  the 
well-known  checker  weave.  The  work- 
manship in  this  case  is  rather  crude,  neither 
technique  nor  material  lending  itself  to  the 
production  of  a  shapely  sandal.  The  foot- 
wear made  from  finer  material,  however, 
shows  skill  in  the  art  of  weaving. 

Fig.  1  illustrates  a  close-twined  weave 
composed  of  warp-  and  weft-strands  of 
slightly  twisted  material,  which  may  be 
either  wild  hemp  or  fine  grass;  both  warp 
and  weft,  however,  seem  to  be  of  the  same 


INDIAN    NOTES 


SANDALS  AND  FABRICS 


material.  The  weft  is  composed  of  two 
strands  (a,  ft),  of  which  the  latter  (b)  passes 
under  the  first  warp  and  over  the  second, 
while  the  former  (a)  crosses  over  the  first 


FIG.  1.— Close  twined  weave. 

and  under  the  second.  This  process  is  con- 
tinued throughout  the  weave.  Meanwhile 
the  two  weft-strands  cross  each  other  at  the 


AND    MONOGRAPHS 


10 


KENTUCKY  CAVES 


intersection  of  the  warp,  as  shown  at  c. 
The  drawing  shows  the  weft -strands  which 
are  above  the  warp,  all  leaning  in  one 
direction.  This  is  the  same  technique  as 
that  used  in  twined  basketry. 

Fig.  2  illustrates  a  different  method  of 
crossing  the  weft  over  the  warp,  for  in  this 
case  one  row  points  to  the  left,  while  the 
next  one  leans  toward  the  .right,  the  rows 
alternating.  This  change  in  the  method  of 
crossing  the  weft-strands  has  brought  about 
an  entirely  different  appearance  in  the 
finished  surface  of  the  weave,  as  compared 
with  that  shown  in  fig.  1.  The  result  is  a 
pattern  suggesting  a  chevron  design  that 
seems  to  have  had  the  preference,  if  we  may 
judge  by  the  number  of  specimens  in  the 
Museum's  collection  showing  this  technique. 
The  drawings  are  made  to  show  the  weaving 
elements  widely  separated,  in  order  that 
one  may  readily  follow  the  crossings  and 
turns,  as  well  as  the  way  of  changing  the 
direction  of  the  weft-strands  when  making 
the  turn  at  the  edges  of  the  weave.  A 
comparison  of  the  two  weaves  is  shown  in 
pi.  I,  n.  The  specimens,  however,  are  all 


INDIAN    NOTES 


SANDALS  AND  FABRICS 


11 


woven  closely,  so  that  the  warp-strands  are 
entirely  concealed,  except  for  the  space  of 
about  an  inch  in  width  at  the  back  of  the 
heel,  but  not  reaching  below  the  tread. 


FIG.  2. — Twined  weave  showing  chevron  pattern. 

The  general  appearance  of  a  finished  sandal 
would  suggest  that  the  weave  was  made  in 
a  rectangular  piece  before  being  shaped, 


AND    MONOGRAPHS 


12 


KENTUCKY  CAVES 


rather  than  that  it  was  formed  as  the 
weaving  progressed. 

One  feature  in  favor  of  this  belief  is  a 
point  at  the  base  of  the  heel,  evidently 
effected  by  turning  up  the  edges  of  the 
weave  to  make  the  sides  of  the  sandal.  A 
sharp  bend  or  fold  in  a  line  of  the  weave 
would  have  had  a  tendency  to  cause  a  crowd- 
ing of  the  fiber  at  that  point,  and  this  may 
account  for  the  slight  projection  at  the  base 
of  the  heel.  On  the  other  hand,  if  the  sandal 
had  been  shaped  during  the  operation  of 
weaving,  the  projection  referred  to  would 
not  have  been  likely  to  occur;  and,  further, 
there  would  be  no  apparent  reason  for  the 
existence  of  the  uncovered  warp-strands  at 
the  back  of  the  heel. 

Another  feature  is  the  formation  of  the 
toe-end  of  a  sandal,  where  the  end  of  the 
weave  is  again  folded  in  the  middle  and  the 
edges  brought  together,  forming  a  seam  from 
the  point  of  the  toe  to  theinstep.  The  sharp 
projection  is  not  so  pronounced  here  as  in 
the  fold  at  the  heel-end  of  the  weave. 
However,  as  there  are  only  used,  and  in 
some  cases  much  worn,  specimens  for  ex- 


INDIAN    NOTES 


SANDALS  AND   FABRICS    |      13 


animation,  these  peculiarities  are  not  so 
prominent  as  they  would  be  in  a  nt^  piece 
of  work.  The  following  suggestions  as  to 
the  method  of  manufacture  may  also  furnish 
a  reason  for  the  uncovered  warp  at  the  back 
of  the  heel. 

The  warp-strands  were  apparently  laid 
lengthwise  of  the  foot  and  of  sufficient 
length  to  extend  up  one  side  and  down  the 
opposite  side  of  the  foot,  making  a  turn  at 
the  heel.  The  number  of  warp  elements 
were  determined  by  the  size  of  the  object 
to  be  made.  There  are  twenty-two  strands 
in  the  sandal  illustrated  in  pi.  in. 

The  weave  was  commenced  near  the 
looped  warp  and  carried  along  to  the  length 
required,  when  the  edges  were  turned  up  to 
make  the  sides  of  the  sandal.  This  opera- 
tion would  have  left  the  looped  warp- 
strands  out  of  line  with  the  curvature  of  the 
heel.  To  overcome  such  defect  the  warp- 
elements  above  the  tread  could  have  been 
drawn  through  the  weave,  much  like  a 
draw-string,  toward  the  toe  of  the  sandal, 
until  the  slack  was  taken  up  sufficiently  to 
give  shape  to  the  heel. 


AND    MONOGRAPHS 


14  KENTUCKY  CAVES 


None  of  the  specimens  examined  show 
!  that  the  ends  of  the  weave  were  brought 
together  to  make  a  seam  at  the  heel,  which 
accounts  for  the  presence  of  those  un- 
covered strands  at  that  part  of  the  sandal. 
At  the  completion  of  the  desired  length  of 
weave,  the  corners 'were  turned  over  and 
the  edges  brought  together,  where  the  ends 
of  the  warp-strands  were  braided,  making 
a  seam  from  the  point  of  the  toe  to  the 
instep.  The  upper  warp-elements  were 
evidently  drawn  tight  to  make  the  sides  of 
the  sandal  fit  snugly  to  the  foot.  A  finishing 
edge  around  the  opening  has  been  made  by 
coil-stitching  a  strand  of  the  same  material 
as  that  used  in  making  the  sandal.  The 
ends  of  this  finishing  edge  were  turned  back 
over  the  instep  and  looped  into  the  upper 
edge  of  the  sandal,  just  back  of  the  instep, 
forming  a  lacing,  in  all  probability  to  keep 
the  sandal  firmly  in  position  while  being 
worn.  In  some  instances  a  sandal  was 
made  small  enough  to  conform  to  the 
shape  of  the  foot,  as  shown  in  pi.  11,  which 
represents  a  graceful,  comfortable  form 
which  could  hardly  be  improved  in  modern 


INDIAN    NOTES 


SANDALS  AND   FABRICS    i      15 


shoe-making.  There  is  no  doubt  that  the 
soft  material  used  is  responsible,  in  a 
measure,  for  this  delicate  shape. 

PI.  iv  illustrates  another  shape,  in  which 
the  protuberance  on  each  side  of  the  toe  has 
been  effected  by  stuffing  loose  fiber  in  those 
parts,  probably  for  the  purpose  of  taking 
up  the  excess  in  the  width  or  to  satisfy  a 
desire  for  a  peculiar  style  in  footwear. 
This  last  shape,  however,  predominates,  at 
least  so  far  as  the  specimens  in  the  Museum 
indicate. 

Owing  to  the  soft,  flexible  nature  of  the 
material  used  in  this  weaving,  it  would  be 
practically  impossible  to  perform  the  opera- 
tion without  the  aid  of  a  loom  of  some  sort 
to  keep  the  warp  taut;  therefore  a  conjec- 
tural loom  is  illustrated  in  fig.  3,  which  rep- 
resents a  single-beam  contrivance  with 
weighted  warp-strands.  This  simple  form 
is  suggested  because  the  twined  weaving 
may  be  easily  produced  on  such  a  loom 
without  the  aid  of  various  weaving  tools; 
all  the  operations  may  be  carried  to  com- 
pletion with  the  fingers  alone. 

The  important  step  at  the  commencement 


AND    MONOGRAPHS 


16 


KENTUCKY  CAVES 


FIG.  3. — Conjectural  beam  loom,  with  weighted  warp- 
strands,    (a,  Looped  ends  of  warp-strands  above  the  beam; 

b,  Beam  to  which  the  warp-strands  are  secured  by  lacing; 

c,  Twined  weft  elements;  d,  Weighted  warp-strands  below 
the  beam.) 


INDIAN    NOTES 


SANDALS  AND   FABRICS 


17 


of  a  piece  of  weaving  is  to  secure  the  warp- 
strands  in  parallel  position,  and  to  hold 
them  taut.  Supposing  such  a  loom  to  have 
been  used,  those  strands  must  necessarily 
have  been  fastened  to  the  beam,  which  could 
be  done  by  a  process  of  lacing  around  the 
beam  and  over  the  warp-elements.  The 
illustration,  however,  is  presented  for  the 
purpose  of  showing  the  unique  disposal  of 
the  warp-elements  at  the  beam-end,  in  the 
manufacture  of  the  sandal. 

Other  specimens  of  woven  fabrics  consist 
of  two  complete  bags  and  numerous  frag- 
ments, some  of  which  may  be  remains  of 
clothing  or  blankets.  One  piece  especially 
(pi.  v)  suggests  a  blanket;  it  is  of  closely- 
woven,  twined  technique.  The  warp  and 
weft  are  each  made  of  six-  or  eight-ply 
twisted  fiber,  differing  in  that  respect  from 
the  weaving  elements  employed  in  sandal 
making.  The  weave  is  close,  entirely  con- 
cealing the  warp.  This  specimen,  when 
new,  was  probably  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
thick. 

PL  vi  illustrates  a  pouch  about  7£  in. 
deep  by  9|  in.  wide.  The  technique  is  an 


AND    MONOGRAPHS 


18  KENTUCKY  CAVES 


open  twined  weave.  The  warp  is  continu- 
ous— not  severed  at  the  top,  but  looped  as 
shown  in  fig.  4.  The  twining  is  commenced 
along  the  bottom  of  the  bag  and  continued 


FIG.  4. — Open  twined  weave. 

spirally  to  the  top;  the  lines  are  about  half 
an  inch  apart.  The  warp-strands  are 
wrapped  in  pairs  by  the  twining  weft,  and 
are  twisted  at  each  intersection  of  the  cross- 


INDIAN    NOTES 


SANDALS  AND  FABRICS    \      19 


ing  element.  A  finishing  edge  around  the 
top  of  the  bag  is  made  of  a.  six-strand 
braid,  one  strand  of  which  is  made  to  pass 
through  groups  of  three  of  the  looped  warp- 
elements,  which  were  twisted  together  be- 
fore the  strand  was  passed  through.  The 
twining  and  braiding  fiber  is  of  darker 
color  than  that  used  for  the  warp,  although 
apparently  of  the  same  material,  which  was 
probably  dyed  for  the  purposeof  ornamenta- 
tion. 

The  other  bag  mentioned  is  of  much 
smaller  proportions,  measuring  only  2  in. 
wide  by  2 1  in.  deep.  Its  technique  is 
identical  with  that  of  the  larger  one,  but 
the  braided  edge  has  been  omitted.  Bags 
of  the  same  weave  are  not  at  all  uncommon 
among  the  Woodland  Indians  of  today.  A 
number  of  years  ago  a  large  earthenware 
salt-pan  in  fragmentary  condition,  now  in 
this  Museum,  was  found  in  a  mound  on  the 
banks  of  Cumberland  river,  opposite  Nash- 
ville, Tenn.  The  under-side  of  this  vessel 
shows  the  imprint  of  the  open,  twined 
weave,  showing  evidently  that  the  soft  clay 
had  been  built  up  on  a  number  of  pieces  of 


AND    MONOGRAPHS 


20 

KENTUCKY  CAVES 

cloth  of  that  variety.  The  interesting  fea- 
ture is  the  variation  in  the  sizes  of  the  weave 

shown  in  the  imprint.  The  lines  of  twining 
range  from  an  eighth  of  an  inch  to  seven- 
eighths  of  an  inch  apart,  with  the  warp- 
strands  correspondingly  fine  or  coarse. 

NOTE 

1.  YOUNG,  Bennett  H.,  The  Prehistoric  Men 
of  Kentucky,  Louisville,  1910. 

INDIAN    NOTES 

A     000  738  004 


No.  5:  Note  on   the  Archaeology  of 

By  George  Grant  MacCurdy.  Reprinted 
from  Amer.  Anihropol.,  Vol.  15,  1913,  No.  4. 
50c. 

No.  6:  Petroglyphs  of  Saint  Vincent,  British 
West  Indies.  By  Thomas  Huckerby.  Re- 
printed from  Amer.  Antkropol.,  Vol.  16.  1914. 
No.  2.  50c. 

No.  7:  Prehistoric  Objects  from  a  Shell-heap 
at  Erin  Bay,  Trinidad.  By  J.  Walter  Fewkes. 
Reprinted  from  Amer.  Anthropol.,  Vol.  16, 
1914,  No.  2.  50c. 

No.  8:  Relations  of  Aboriginal  Culture  and  En- 
vironment in  the  Lesser  Antilles.  By  J. 
Walter  Fewkes.  Reprinted  from  Bull.  Amer. 
Geogr.  Soc.,  Vol.  46,  1914,  No.  9,  50c. 

No.  9:  Pottery  from  Certain  Caves  in  Eastern 
Santo  Domingo,  West  Indies.     By  Theodoor 
de  Booy.    Reprinted  from  Amer.  Anihropol., 
Vol.  17,  1915,  No.  1.    50c. 
Vol.2 

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No.  2:  Engraved  Celts  from  the  Antilles.  By 
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No.  3:  Certain  West  Indian  Superstitions  Per- 
taining to  Celts.  By  Theodoor  de  Booy. 
Reprinted  from  Journ.  Amer.  Folk-Lore,  Vol. 
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No.  4:  The  Nanticoke  Community  of  Dela- 
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No.  5:  Notes  on  the  Archeology  of  Margarita 
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Vol.  3 

Physical  Anthropology  of  the  Lenape  or  Deli- 
wares,  and  of  the  Eastern  Indians  in  Gen- 
eral. By  Ales  Hrdlicka.  (Bur.  of  Amer, 
Ethnol.,  Bull.  62,  1916,  vrith  added  title-page 
and  cover.)  $1.00. 

Vol.4 

No.  1 :  The  Technique  of  Porcupine-Quill  Dec- 
oration among  the  North  American  Indians. 
By  William  C.  Orchard.  1916.  $1.00. 

No.  2:  Certain  Archeological  Investigations 
in  Trinidad,  British  West  Indies.  By  Theo- 
door  de  Booy.  Reprinted  from  Amer.  An- 
thropol.,  Vol.  19,  1917,  No.  4.  50c. 

No.  3:  The  Nacoochee  Mound  in  Georgia.  By 
George  G.  Heye,  F.  W.  Hodge,  and  George 
H.  Pepper.  1918.  $1.50. 

Vol.5 

No.  1 :  A  Letter  of  Pedro  de  Alvarado  Relating 
to  his  Expedition  to  Ecuador  [1534].  By 
Marshall  H.  Saville.  1917.  50c. 

No.  2 :  The  Dieguefio  Ceremony  of  the  Death- 
Images.  By  E.  H.  Davis.  1919.  50c. 

No.  3:  Certain  Mounds  in  Haywood  County, 
North  Carolina.  By  George  G.  Heye.  Re- 
printed from  Holmes  Anniversary  Volume, 
1916.  1919.  50c. 

No.  4:  Exploration  of  Aboriginal  Sites  at 
Throgs  Neck  and  Clasons  Point,  New  York 
City.  By  Alanson  Skinner.  1919.  $1.00. 

Address : 
MUSEUM  OF  THE  AMERICAN  INDIAN,  HEYE 

FOUNDATION, 

BROADWAY  AT  155TH  ST., 
NEW  YORK  CITY 


